The humble coconut tree typically finds space in pictures of Goa, swaying in the backdrop of beaches, or crowding around old homes. This tree is integral to the lives of Goans, who make use of almost every part of it. One of the most interesting uses is collecting toddy from the palm flower bud. This toddy is then converted into coconut jaggery, or vinegar or distilled into coconut feni. The process of making coconut feni is fascinating, involving the use of manmade instruments and much skill. All this and more, I learn at a feni experience in a cashew farm in South Goa.
Goa may be everyone’s favourite drinking destination, but it is not just about drinking cheap alcohol. In the last few years, the state has seen a rise in the number of people utilising its resources to make homegrown spirits and opening their doors for tours. There are activities and experiences conducted that highlight alcohol and go deeper than the bottle. On the side-lines, a few Goans are actively working towards preserving local spirits and drinking holes. It makes Goa a fascinating destination for anyone who likes their alcohol.
For a different taste of alcohol in Goa, try these experiences.
In the hills of Benaulim, lies a darkened cellar packed with handblown glass containers of different sizes. These garrafões once belonged to different people who used it to store feni before they fell into neglect. Hansel Vaz of Cazulo Premium Feni rescued them, and they are now used to store feni and serve as a reminder of the drink’s rich past. At the cashew farm (Fazenda Cazulo) that contains this cellar, you get an introduction into the world of feni. You learn about cashew and coconut feni — the utensils and equipment used, the distillation process, etc. There is a tasting and food pairing session — in a small spring on the farm — that includes fun cocktails, Goan food, some games and maybe a cigar rolling class or two.
At Cuelim. Starts Rs 1,800 per person. Book: urbanaut
Hidden in the by-lanes of Panjim, invisible to the tourist eye keen on seeking out the colourful houses of Fontainhas and Sao Tome, are small bars. These watering holes, called tavernas, were once a source of local liquor and gossip. Today, though dwindling in number, they retain that sense of the past: small places where you can always find feni and urrak (and now, IMFL). The food is sparse: boiled gram, boiled eggs, some fried fish, omelettes, dried fish, etc. You can learn more about these tavernas and how they fit into the social fabric of Goan lives for decades with Soul Travelling’s A Secret Food & Tavern Trail in Panjim. The trail visits a few old tavernas, a few modern ones like Joseph Bar, and as a bonus, a couple of historic eating joints too. It is history, with a dash of feni.
Ideally, it should be called a museum of alcohol-related products. Businessman Nandan Kudchadkar opened All About Alcohol Museum last year and it shows off his private collection of items. It houses artefacts linked to alcohol, from vintage beakers and bottles to old measuring equipment. The museum’s pride is feni and there is a rustic still that shows the distillation process for cashew and coconut feni, a temperature-controlled room of garrafões stocked with feni sourced from the family farm, and a makeshift taverna that hosts feni tastings. There’s also a section dedicated to old Goan kitchens with cutlery, utensils and other items commonly found. The museum has a guided tour, which serves the purpose of offering information that is otherwise lacking with the displays.
At Candolim. Entry is Rs 300. Call 9326733293. Instagram
Adventurist Spirits Distillery is the only place where you can see how gin is made. Devika Bhagat and Khalil Bachooali (of Adventurist Spirits) own the licence to distil and bottle gin. In December 2021, the couple (under Adventurist Spirits) launched their gin Tāmras. Soon after, they opened the distillery for guided tours. Here, you can wander around the spacious distillery set up like a swanky living room with comfortable sofas and chairs, potted plants, and a long bar. You get an introduction to the gin, its different ingredients, and the origin of Tāmras. Then it is time to meet the Mueller pot still — the 237-litre copper still named Odysseus — where the distillation happens. At the end is a tasting, with cocktails that highlight the spirit, and some nibbles.
At Colvale. At 5pm on Friday and Saturday. Rs 1,500. Instagram
Take a stroll down single malt lane at the Paul John Distillery tour. It is a journey that includes details of whisky-making, from mashing to distilling and a guide to understanding the distillation process. You get to view the copper pot stills, see the towering barrels at the warehouse, and step into the cellars. The tour ends with a tasting of their premium expressions, and a visit to the gift shop should you want to carry back something.
At Cuncolim. Monday to Sunday, 11 am to 4 pm. From Rs 400 per person. Call 7447788979 or email visitorcentre@jdl.in
In Latambarcem, you can learn about the making of Maka Di brews. A distillery tour here includes a chat with the brewers, seeing the malts and hops, and understanding the brewing process. It ends with a tasting of their four variants and some nibbles, in their garden. Tours vary according to price; the most expensive one also includes Maka Di merchandise.
Elsewhere, in a renovated villa in Sangolda, Goa Brewing Co also opens their distillery (in an old house) for tours, which end in a tasting.
Maka Di’s tour starts at Rs 499. Book here GBC is open on Saturdays. Instagram
Read more. All about feni at Fazenda Cazulo Unfolding the Tāmras story
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Copyright © 2022 Mediascope. All Right Reserved.